Saturday, September 27, 2014

Sharjah Autozone

Since I moved to Sharjah in the UAE last August for work I have tasked myself to understand how the built environment is shaped differently 5000km from the UK where I did my Bachelor's degree in Urban Planning. Previously a lot of my perceptions on space and place have been shaped by what I've read on European cities with little reference to cities in the Middle East or elsewhere. To be fair on my course it was never really designed to study planning outside of the UK and it never implied that the meaning of space and place is objective, it just taught us how to analyse it.

One of the first few interesting things I have encountered here as an amateur urbanist is author Yasser Elsheshtawy. A lot of his work is to do with researching the urban form in Arab cities and he touches upon the meaning of space/place a fair bit in his books and publications. One of the objects he has used to delineate the meaning of place in the UAE vis-à-vis the global narrative on cities is shopping centers. Traditionally a shopping center is viewed as a haven for hyper-consumers running around in a less than spectacular concrete structure. Elsheshtawy however suggests that for people in the UAE shopping centers are seen as vibrant public spaces, much like a public plaza. This would make practical sense as there's only so much you can do outdoor when it's 40+ degrees, and having been to a few shopping centers in the UAE I can definitely feel a different vibe from the malls I have been to in the US. Ultimately I think there are different ways public indoor spaces can be created that shouldn't be restricted to shopping centers, but the fact remains that the meaning of a public place in the UAE needs to be appreciated differently.


Mercato mall Dubai. Link: http://inzumi.com/images/destinations/AE_Vereinigte-Arabische-Emirate_Mercato_Shopping_Mall.jpg 
Mercato mall Dubai. Link: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcROH1IhaYM9oxguU2bF9ZLb_AQ4gDhONUpt-NW-YfxQac_doAyD17Lgn_qeIlscQH8MtNau1S2Bo3Mcey_TYzued744Vukj6MRhAkW-NxAT1u6JOvRvZkZbknPIVwlCW28S977_SJSRo/s1600/DSCN5903.JPG

During my first week at work I encountered another situation where I had to recalibrate my thoughts on what place means here. One of the planners was briefing me on the Sharjah Autozone development they have been working on with the government, a massive business and leisure facility dedicated to used-car dealerships at a rumoured cost of 300-400 million USD, in many senses it as an oasis for petrol-heads. The government of Sharjah appears to be interested in creating an entertainment automobile retail facility much like Abu Dhabi's concept plan for Motor World, which apparently is meant to house a 3 star hotel, office space, retail podiums and a range of fine dining outlets! I found it ridiculous that the government would invest so much money on such a development. Amazingly though the motive of this investment is urban improvement.

Abu Dhabi Motor World. Link: http://abudhabiliving.net/system/files/07.jpg

In a relatively small neighbourhood in Sharjah called Abu Shagara right behind my office building around 500 used-car dealerships form the biggest center for used-car trade in the Middle-East. The areas isn't even commercial, it mostly consists of residential buildings with the basement of almost every building occupied by used-car dealerships. Apparently if you drive through the neighbourhood merchants sometimes walk up to your window and ask to buy your car on the spot and in some cases they will also invite themselves into your car to pitch their offer. It might be an interesting and successful used-car trade hub but the quality of living in Abu Shagara is unpleasant, mostly due to bad traffic and congestion caused by the car dealers, and the neighbourhood just feels like it's suffocating.

Used-cars for sale in parking lots. Link: http://gulfnews.com/polopoly_fs/1.1230328!/image/1210161183.jpg_gen/derivatives/box_475/1210161183.jpg

Traffic jam Abu Shagara. Link: http://gulfnews.com/polopoly_fs/1.1230328!/image/1210161183.jpg_gen/derivatives/box_475/1210161183.jpg
There is thus a justification for relocating the car dealers out of Abu Shagara to improve the neighbourhood's quality of living, but what of the 400 million USD cost of Sharjah Autozone? In the words of my co-worker cars are an extension of people in the Emirates. People in the UAE appear to value cars a fair bit, apparent in the amount of money some would spend on buying a specialised number plate and on decorating their cars for the UAE National Day celebrations.

UAE National Day car decoration. Link: http://gulfnews.com/polopoly_fs/1.547350!/image/487009351.jpg_gen/derivatives/box_640/487009351.jpg
To some degree Sharjah Autozone can be seen as a development intrinsically rooted in aspects of UAE culture with regards to car consumption, which makes me feel a bit more sympathetic towards the development although I'd still argue money can always be spent on more urgent things in the city such as improving public transport and alleviating traffic congestion. Nevertheless if you're a car lover and a frustrated resident of Abu Shagara I think you might just see Sharjah Autzone as a necessary development.

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Qustandi


Christopher Andrew Mazen Qustandi Karam. One thing that stands out is perhaps my Western appearing given name, Christopher Andrew, which feels out of place and awkward. To sort this mess out I decided to dive into a bit of onomatology. The results were not exactly surprising:

Christopher: Greek origin (Christóforos) meaning carrier of Christ.
Andrew (maternal grandfather's name): Greek origin meaning manly and strong.
Mazen (dad's name): Arabic origin, most likely meaning rain clouds.
Qustandi (paternal grandfather's name): Latin origin (very similar to Constantine) meaning steady and firm.
Karam: Arabic origin meaning generous.

I say not surprising not for the (admittedly) sublime accuracy the names bestow upon my personality, but for their accurate reflection upon my ethnic background. Situated in the Eastern Mediterranean, Palestine has long been exposed to the Greco-Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires, all of which have used the Latin, Greek, and Arabic languages. So really it's no surprise that my name represents an amalgamation of the Classical, Medieval, and Modern eras. I am however particularly interested in one part of my name, Qustandi. The name got me thinking when I was reading about Constantine the Great and the Roman empire. Constantine is regarded highly in Orthodox Christianity due to the influential role he played in sponsoring the underground religion and its eventual spreading across various continents from 400AD onwards. I come from an Eastern Orthodox Arabic background (colloquially referred to as 'Ruum' Orthodox - meaning Roman Orthodox) so expectedly the name Constantine eventually filtered through cultures and regions to become Qustandi.

Away from onomatology and my personal history and closer to something of more interest to me; how does Qustandi and Eastern Orthodox Christianity translate into the built environment form in Ramallah? This warrants a visit to the Ruum Orthodox church. I only had to drive less than a kilometre from my house to reach this site in Al-Tireh suburb:


Picture courtesy of Mazen Karam

If you look closely at the picture you might notice that there is in fact no church; so much for built environment. This is the site of the first place of Orthodox worship in Ramallah. The picture shows remnants of a monastery where Saint Stephen (the first Christian martyr) was said to be buried. More than a century ago Ramallah was home to seven Christian monasteries, one of which was St. Stephen's monastery. Back then Ramallah was not exactly a city let alone a town. In fact the name Ramallah did not even appear until the 15th century, when the modern day city was inaugurated. The monasteries were thus a defining characteristic of the area at one point in history. Today only ruins remain and they are conserved by local municipalities in Ramallah and the adjacent city, Al-Bireh.


Another monastery site in Al-Bireh, picture courtesy of Mazen Karam
The site of St. Stephen's monastery is still used till this day for ceremonial worship amongst Eastern Orthodox Christians.

Eastern Orthodox ceremonial worship, picture courtesy of Mazen Karam

Last summer (2013) new artefacts were discovered and so the site has been gated as archaeological work continues.

Artefact from St. Stephen's monastery, picture courtesy of Mazen Karam

I continued my drive towards Ramallah and arrived at the Church of Transfiguration, the current site of the Ruum Orthodox Church in the historic district of Ramallah-Al-Tahta (literally lower Ramallah).


Ruum Orthodox Church Ramallah

Church interior

Church interior

The church was built in the traditional architectural style of the Basilica, with a large rectangular interior split into three rows by large columns. The construction of Basilica churches was the result of a direct order by Constantine the Great. If it weren't for him Basilicas or even churches might have never had existed. The church thus stands as a testimony to the strong and lasting influence of Constantine's Christianisation of the Middle East.

The church is decorated with a selection of Christian artwork of Jesus, Mary and various saints. In Eastern Christianity religious artwork is referred to as 'icons' or 'ikonat' in Arabic, regardless of its form. Expectedly the artwork is very characteristic of traditional Eastern Christianity and Byzantine art. Here's a few pictures of some of the icons found in the church today:


Image source: http://www.tajalli.ps/EN/frames.html
Image source: http://www.tajalli.ps/EN/frames.html
Last Supper, image source: http://www.tajalli.ps/EN/frames.html
Image source: http://www.tajalli.ps/EN/frames.html

If you think these icons are ugly, well done, you've probably complimented their respective artists. Byzantine Christian art departed from the sexualised fascination with the body epitomised in Pagan Classicist art and instead demoted humans to a more rudimentary, almost intentionally ugly form. Up until the Renaissance Christian artwork was very much about conveying religious meaning and disregarding pagan traditions of glorifying the image of human beings.

L'Ultima Cena by Leonardo Da Vinci, image source: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4b/%C3%9Altima_Cena_-_Da_Vinci_5.jpg

If you compare Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper portrait to the Byzantine version shown before you can notice a stark contrast in style. The former portrait was drawn during the Renaissance period, when there was a reemergence of Classical art. The faces in the portrait are much more rounded and feel more 'real', in fact most of the concentration in the picture is on Jesus and his disciples. However the Byzantine version in the Church of Transfiguration chooses not to concentrate on the human figures, instead the icon is essentially trying to tell the story of the Last Supper with no frills.

The East-West Schism during the Middle Ages might well have had a massive influence on Christian art in Ramallah, and Orthodox Christianity in general. After the schism, Orthodox Christianity remained highly conservative in its art forms and icons. When the Renaissance eventually came about in later years the Catholic church was more recipient and gradually re-adopted the Classical models of architecture and art, unlike its Orthodox counterparts who remained closer to the Byzantine models. What makes the Church of Transfiguration in Ramallah very Orthodox is thus the lack of any artwork resemblant of the Renaissance/Enlightenment/Modern eras.

The Church of Transfiguration is probably only one dimension of the influence Constantine the Great has had on Ramallah's culture and built environment, however it is perhaps the most vivid living example in the city.

Constantine the Great: Ancient selfie

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Wherefore Rawabi?

Ramallah has been expanding rapidly over the past few decades and particularly in the last 10 years. Immigration (especially from the north of the West Bank) is making this city more and more populous and even causing social tensions at times. Recently there have been several incidences of prejudice towards people from the north, particularly Jenin. The prejudice slur "Thai" has been used to insult northern people and the government moved quick to ban this word and punish anyone who uses it in a discriminatory form. The word Thai has nothing to do with Thai people per se, however it's referencing Thai people's immigration to other Asian countries in search for work, often earning very low wages. Immigration from the north has angered people as this has caused an increase in the supply of low-wage labour, which affects people's earnings.

The property development sector is now capitalising on the increase in housing demand and are building at will, with minimum regulation and scrutiny as to what is being built. Of course that's an exaggeration, there are probably procedures for acquiring permits and planning permission etc., but what is actually happening in my opinion is sporadic construction of buildings with an indifference to the look and feel of the city's built environment.

I figured I can make use of my dad's SLR and take some pictures to illustrate my thoughts. I was actually a bit surprised because some of the pictures don't really make the buildings look that bad. In fact from a distance the buildings look nice.





But I'm more concerned about what things look like on the neighbourhood level. If you drive around the Al-Tireh suburb (one of the areas subject to massive urban expansion) you start to notice how buildings are crammed next to each other like a Sim City fail.



NYC?



Property developer advertising their 4th housing project

Hotel built right in front of a house







The picture above shows a once empty valley in front of my house (where in the past you could spot deer). The 5-6 buildings you see in the front literally appeared over the past 10 years.

Maybe I'm sounding hyper-critical and reactionary as I moan about all the new buildings. It is true that the West Bank has limited land to build on, and there is only so much construction skills and quality available. But surely some sort of coordination between property developers could be facilitated to make the built environment look more appealing, and I don't think that's being too idealistic. Even taking into consideration that there aren't many resources at the disposal of developers, individual buildings still aren't the problem. There are some very nice buildings that are well built like the ones in the two pictures below, this further supports my point that the problem lies in planning and coordination.





A couple of weeks ago I came across a possible solution to some of the problems faced by property development in the West Bank: Rawabi. Rawabi (http://www.rawabi.ps/index.php), currently under construction, is set to be the first Palestinian planned-city, consisting of 10,000 homes with a population of 40,000 people. It will also have schools, hospitals, and shopping centres. I visited the construction site with my family a few weeks ago and we were given a demonstration about the development.


http://i2.cdn.turner.com/cnn/dam/assets/130703232412-rawabi-park-story-top.jpg

I can see why Rawabi looks appealing, it's offering affordable housing developed in conjunction with the internationally acclaimed Qatari Diar real estate company. It's considered a public-private partnership but is funded almost exclusively by private investors. According to the Rawabi website the master plan includes feedback from "months of surveys and focus groups among targeted homeowner groups". The project also aims to be environmentally responsible. This of course is a step up from the current practice of property development.




Construction site

Rawabi visitors centre 


Model

Model 
Model building

Model mosque

Model



Despite the novelty and perhaps progressiveness of the Rawabi project it still felt eery to me. Bizarrely, it was *too* planned. I think the development has good intentions, but I think there's a fine line between good planning and outright commodification of people's lives. I think Rawabi objectifies the meaning of neighbourhood by saying on its website "the city is comprised of 23 neighborhoods...Each neighborhood will have a unique name and a special identity". For me, neighbourhoods cannot be preset and certainly cannot be bounded. What's also annoying is the objectification of the meaning of culture via the The Rawabi Cultural Center, which is set to be the nexus of culture in Rawabi. Is this supposed to mean culture is produced and spit out of a building every now and then? Finally Rawabi is relatively far from Ramallah, the closest major city. This might be a problem for mobility in the area.

Video demonstration of Rawabi...Life as a commodity

Again I admit that I'm being hyper-critical, I do hope that the project is a success as there is a lot of money being invested in it. Maybe planned cities might turn out to be a good solution given the geography and politics in the region. But for me personally I don't see Rawabi as the best alternative for the current practice of property development, not least because I simply don't like how it looks. What's more, planned cities have not been a major success internationally, see for example Peterborough or Northampton. One things's for sure, I won't be putting a downpayment on an apartment in Rawabi! 

Monday, August 5, 2013

Wall post

Graffiti is easy to spot around Ramallah's pale stone walls. Until a few years ago, almost all the walls of Ramallah's city centre were covered with graffiti. A lot of it have now been erased with sand blasters. I don't particularly find graffiti aesthetically pleasing, but I think I can appreciate that it is interesting. I've read that urban graffiti is a great tool in understanding various segments of society in a city, revealing hidden knowledge of subcultures and transcribing the language of the oppressed. So what can Ramallah's graffiti (what's left of it) reveal?

I contacted my friend and emerging local artist Lydia Marouf to help me out with this mini investigation. Lydia just finished a six-month internship at Qattan, a local culture and education development foundation, where she worked as a photographer and website editor. Currently Lydia is working on starting her own handmade clothing line in Palestine.

We set out on a Saturday morning without any real plan of what we intend on photographing, but soon enough we began to see themes emerging whereby we could identify distinct categories. I decided to classify the graffiti in four categories: Political parties territorial marks, internal conflicts, anti-oppression, and avant-garde art (though the last two categories kind of overlap).

Territorial marks

We only came across two political party logos: Fatah and the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine (PFLP). Hamas seemed to be missing but then again Hamas isn't particularly popular in the West Bank. We also came across one armed wing organisation: Al-Quds Brigades.

PFLP (bottom right)                                             Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
Fatah                                                                        Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
Fatah                                                                       Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
Al-Quds Brigades                                                Photo credit: Lydia Marouf


Internal conflict

There were a lot of anti-government and anti-Abbas slurs across the city centre. The graffiti weren't authored, but I imagine that some would have come from the PFLP. The PFLP is known to oppose negotiations with Israel on the basis that it objectifies a two-state solution. Perhaps some graffiti could have also come from unaffiliated citizens who are, like the PFLP, frustrated with the Abbas-led Fatah government in the West Bank.

Homoeroticism?                                                    Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
The graffiti in the picture above really confused us. It seems as though the artist is using homosexuality as a means to degrade Mahmoud Abbas (left) who appears to be kissing an unknown man (as far as we know). Or perhaps the artist is using homoeroticism to allude to some ulterior political cause, but what?!


"Government of shame"                                        Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
"No to the negotiations (with Israel)"                 Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
"The nation wants Abbas ousted"                        Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
"Bring down Oslo"                                                  Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
The writing in red is referring to the 1993 and perhaps 1995 Oslo accords. Oslo is considered shameful by a faction of Palestinians as the accord (signed by the PLO) officially recognises the state of Israel.

   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
Some of the graffiti also reflected internal social struggles. We weren't sure what the graffiti above was supposed to refer to, but I think it might be criticising Palestinian police brutality. However I'm not really aware of any extreme cases of police aggression in the West Bank.


"The revolution is female" (in black)                  Photo credit: Lydia Marouf
This one is my favourite; the revolution is female. It's no secret that most Palestinian resistance movements are male-oriented, this tends to marginalise women who feel equally as strong about the Palestinian cause as men do.

Anti-oppression

I like this category because it unites all Palestinian people regardless of their political affiliation. Fatah, the PFLP and other groups and individuals are all fighting against the same act of oppression.


Grassroots revolution                                             Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

Hunger strike                                                Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

The man in the picture above is a reference to the hunger strikes that Palestinian prisoners undertake. The bearded man can be seen on several walls around the city centre.

   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

"NObama"                                                               Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

Palestinians were led to think that the election of Obama in 2008 would offer something better for politics in the region. However it wasn't long before the U.S president was regarded as "the same as the rest of them", as Obama continues to pressure Palestine to recognise Israel as a legitimate Jewish state. Having said that, I'm not sure if McCain or Romney would have been better for us.


   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

The picture above shows a palestinian man wearing a swimming ring standing in a bucket with the label (Ramallah beach). Satire like this is often used in Palestinian graffiti to criticise and condemn oppression.


Avant-Garde art

Some of the graffiti we came across seemed to veer away from politics. I can't really provide commentary on some of the pictures because I literally don't know what they are referring to, but I suppose they don't really have to mean anything!

   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

"These vagabond shoes"                                       Photo credit: Lydia Marouf


The boots in the two pictures above are recurrent across Ramallah's city centre.



   Photo credit: Lydia Marouf 


xoxo                                                               Photo credit: Lydia Marouf

I like the last picture above because it's light-hearted (no pun intended). Maybe if everyone drew hearts on their walls the world wouldn't be such a bad place.

I'm sure there's a lot more graffiti to be discovered in Ramallah, although i'm satisfied with what we saw and what was revealed. Please leave comments below if you have suggestions on what some of the graffiti might mean!